Air Purifaction

Air Purification is the process by which bio-aerosols and volatile organic compounds in the air we breathe are removed, destroyed or rendered harmless. Filters are used mostly to remove inert particulate from the air stream but does not have an effect on molds, bacteria, odors and off-gases. Unfortunately, filters accounts for, on average, only 35% of our indoor air quality problem. The World Health Organization and CDC break indoor air contamination into three categories. Particulates, the dust and dirt introduced into the air, are what a filter will remove. Bioaersols, living microorganisms like mold, bacteria and viruses, can be addressed with ultraviolet germicidal light disinfection. Volatile Organic Compounds, like odors, fumes and off-gases can be neutralized using photo-catalytic oxidation. Air Purifiers can enhance an existing filter by addressing things the filter will miss. It is the single most important defense in reducing harmful contaminants within our homes and places of work, especially in the absence of any outside air exchange.
Second Wind Units
use a high intensity ultraviolet germicidal lamp using 2/3 more UV output than standard UV lamps. Second Wind units also use photo-catalytic oxidation to reduce odors and off-gases. Second Wind uses high output ballasts designed specifically for the UV lamps. Second Wind understands that the proper ballast design also ensures optimal performance of the lamp/ballast combination helps to reduce dirt, dust, mold, bacteria, odors and off-gases. A residential air purifier costs pennies a day to operate, using no more energy than a 40 to 75 watt bulb. The lamps will have to be replaced every 2 years by a qualified HVAC professional. The unit is virtually maintenance-free between replacements.
The Aprilaire Models 1910 and 1930 Germicidal UV Lamps
The UV Lamp is installed in the air conditioning coil to eliminate and prevent biological growth on the coil.
The UV Lamp kills the living bacteria, molds and fungi particles on the air conditioning coil
The Air Cleaner permanently traps them along with other irritants in the air
Warranty is for three years on the unit and one year for the replacement lamp
No ozone production
Uses 40 to 80 watts depending on the model


Humidifiers are used in homes to increase the humidity level. It is important to not have your home’s humidity levels fall out of 40 to 60% range. Too little humidity (such as in the winter with furnace heating) can cause a number of problems such as:

Physical discomforts such as sore throats, dry, chapped, itchy skin, nose bleeds or sinus irritation

Shrinking and cracking wood floors, cracking paint, furniture, artwork, antiques, and musical instruments.

Static shocks

Feeling cold even though the thermostat is cranked up

Instruments falling out of tune

Infections from bacteria and viruses that thrive in dry air

An added benefit is humidifiers can actually lower your heating bill since by putting moisture in the air will make you feel more comfortable at a lower thermostat setting. Homes today being tightly constructed never get enough air from outdoors (called infiltration) are literally as dry as the desert during the winter. This is because the same air is heated over and over again without adding any fresh outdoor air.
Differences in Humidifiers
There are different types of humidifiers:

Central humidifiers: These are built into the home heating and air conditioning systems. They are the most effective since they humidify the entire house and are less likely to be the source of humidifier-associated problems if they are properly maintained.

Portable humidifiers: There are two kinds of these. One kind is a console humidifier that is encased in a cabinet. The second is a smaller unit that holds about one to two gallons. Both of these are designed to be used in a single room.


Dehumidifiers serve the purpose of removing humidity for a more comfortable and healthier home. Too much humidity can cause a number of problems such as:

Physical discomforts such as allergies or asthma, dust must, sweaty skin, musty-smelling odors

Peeling paint, damp spots, or worse, mold and mildew

Feeling hot even though the temperature is low

Breeding ground for termites, cockroaches and other pests

Sources of Indoor Humidity
Many things can cause moisture to build up inside a home. The average household of 4 adds between 3 and 6 gallons of water to the air every day! There are several sources of moisture in the home:

People, plants, and pets: A person gives off three pints of moisture a day just by breathing.

Cooking and dishwashing: These activities produce about one pint of water per meal.

Showers: They release about ½ pint of moisture into the air.

High humidity levels outside.

Crawlspaces and basements: This is especially true if there is a dirt floor not covered by a moisture barrier. Moisture can seep through the soil into a home. Any water that leaks into crawlspaces or basements can raise moisture levels throughout the house.

How To Reduce Indoor Moisture:

Fix roof and plumbing leaks.

Prevent seepage by correcting roof, gutter and drainage problems.

Vent the clothes dryer to the outdoors and don’t hang wet laundry indoors.

Run a ventilation fan that exhausts to the outside for 15 minutes after bathing or until there is no condensation on the windows and mirrors.

If using a central humidification system, ensure that it is maintained and checked regularly. Over humidification can result in excessive moisture and mold

Cover pots when cooking.

Run a ventilation fan that exhausts to the outside when cooking. A circulating fan may remove some cooking odors from the air, but it will not remove moisture.

Buy a hygrometer to monitor interior humidity levels and maintain indoor humidity levels between 40 percent and 60 percent.

Lay plastic over dirt in crawl spaces.

Run the central climate-control system or a dehumidifier.


Airtight homes offer lower energy costs and are easier to heat and cool but without proper ventilation welcome pollutants, moisture, odors, and stale and toxic indoor air. Ventilating a home using natural means such as opening doors and windows, aside from being inefficient, may not always be feasible due to security reasons or outdoor noise levels, rain, snow or other weather conditions. Mechanical ventilation allows for exchange of indoor air with outdoor air to reduce indoor pollutants, moisture, odors, and stale and sometimes toxic indoor air in your home year round.
Mechanical Ventilation:

Installs as part of any central heating and cooling system

Provides a constant, controlled supply of fresh air to your home year round

Reduces excess indoor humidity levels

Reduces unhealthy indoor air pollutants such as formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), radon, carbon dioxide, smoke, odors, dust, bacteria and viruses and more

Saves energy by effectively retaining and utilizing the energy value from your indoor air

Natural ventilation: This is when air moves into the house through open doors or windows. Though natural ventilation can improve indoor air quality, it has several limitations such as:

It is an inefficient means to dilute contaminants in a home because the air is not uniformly distributed.

Increased ventilation from outside can increase pollen and mold spore levels, if outdoor counts are elevated, and moisture.

If there are high winds outside or big temperature differences between indoors and outdoors, there will be too much ventilation that can make humidity levels too low inside. This kind of ventilation in the winter also wastes energy by heating outdoor air.

If there is not much wind outside and not much temperature difference between indoors and outdoors, there will not be enough ventilation in the home when windows are opened.

The flow cannot be controlled.

If the outside air is humid, it can make the indoor air humid, which can create a favorable environment for dust mites and mold.

Properly installed and operated exhaust fans can remove stale, moist air from bathrooms and kitchens. However, there needs to be a way that fresh air can be brought in to make up for the air being vented out. Many homes actively exhaust air but rely on natural ventilation to bring air into the home.
When there is little infiltration, natural ventilation, or mechanical ventilation, the air exchange rate (fresh air coming in and stale air going out) is low and pollutant levels can increase. The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) recommends a minimum ventilation rate of 0.35 ACH (air changes per hour) for new homes. This air exchange rate measures how many times all of the air inside the house is replaced with fresh outside air.
Some people may choose not to “tighten” up homes that are “leaky” or that rely upon infiltration to bring in the needed outside air. There are several problems with doing that:

Ventilation through infiltration cannot be controlled so there may not be enough ventilation in areas of the home that need it most. As a result, pollutants can build up in even “leaky” homes.

Infiltration and natural ventilation rely heavily on outdoor weather so these conditions can drastically reduce the amount of outdoor air that enters a home.

“Leaky” homes can cost more in the long run since they are not energy efficient and cost a lot to heat and cool. “Tight” homes are ones that have been weatherized by sealing cracks, having good insulation, and quality windows. If indoor air pollutants are controlled, the use of mechanical ventilation in these homes can be more comfortable since the temperature and humidity levels can be controlled. If homes are tight, pollutants are not controlled, there is an inadequate number of air exchanges, and levels of pollutants can build up.